“Blind Hem Option”

As a part of the “Sewing Machine Basics” classes, I go over a number of different sewing techniques that we feel are the most commonly used by our customers.  One of those techniques is the blind hem.  Who hasn’t needed to have something hemmed and have had to take it to the cleaners or some other professional, paying to have the adjustment made because you didn’t know how to do it with your machine?  It’s probably the most useful technique I teach!  During class, we use the blind hem foot that comes with your machine, but did you ever wonder why there is an optional foot for this technique for Husqvarna Viking machines?  Positioning the stitch correctly to form the blind hem is so important to make the hem’s stitching truly “blind”.  Line up the fabric too far to the right of the foot and your hem is anything but blind whereas too far to the left of the foot means you do not catch the fold of the fabric at all; thus no hem.

Pfaff’s included accessory foot allows you to precisely line up the folded edge of the fabric along the moveable guide, allowing you to stitch exactly where you want the stitches to fall. 

Turning the metal screw on the right of the foot moves the red guide to the left or to the right for exact stitch placement along the fold of the blind hem.

The Husqvarna Viking included accessory foot D, a fixed position foot, also allows you to line up the edge of the foot along the edge of the hem’s fold, but the optional foot allows more accuracy with that alignment.

The fold of the blind hem runs along the inside right of the foot.
By turning the red dial on the right of this foot, you can adjust the entire foot to the left or to the right.

This is accomplished by turning a dial to move the entire foot to the left or the right without needing to move the fabric.  I purchased this Husqvarna Viking optional foot when I was hemming drapery.  It saved me time by allowing me to set the foot exactly where I needed it, maintaining that same setting through the yards and yards of material for each drapery panel.  If you own a Husqvarna Viking machine and will be doing a lot of blind hems, you may want to consider this optional foot for your accessory box.

“Open Toe Stitching”

Today I am working on finishing a quilt for a bridal shower happening later this month.  I will be adding embroidered quilting designs but before I do, I am stitching in the ditch to secure all my layers together.  I have a number of options in terms of feet I usually use for stitch-in-the ditch, but today I decided to try something new and thought I would share that with you.

Usually I choose one of these feet for my stitch-in-the-ditch. All of them have a metal guide to help me stay in the “ditch”.

I decided to try using my Clear Open Toe foot.  It worked great!  I could see every single “ditch” so well and therefore was able to sew much faster than I usually can with the bonus of excellent accuracy. 

Husqvarna Viking Clear Open Toe Foot

I did make some adjustments to use this foot.  I set my machine for “needle down” to make sure each time I stopped my fabric would not unexpectedly move.  This was important especially at intersections where I needed to pivot.  Since the toe of this foot is open, I clearly saw where my “ditch” was ending and so did not overshoot at the intersections! 

Since I could see so well I was able to stop with accuracy at each intersection. I didn’t overshoot one!
All this visibility allowed me to stay in the “ditch” and sew with more speed and confidence.

I also lowered my presser foot pressure from its normal 6.0 to 3.0 (remember, some machines adjust this pressure with a knob either on the top or the left hand side of the machine while some machines let you adjust this in the Set Menu).  Lastly, I changed the straight stitch from a 2.5 length to a 3.0.  Now that my stitch-in-the-ditch is finished, it’s on to the embroidery!

“Specialty Embroidery Hoops and Quilting, Part 2”

Last week I talked about the Endless Hoops and their quilting uses.  This week I want to focus on the other specialty hoops made for quilting. These hoops are for quilting but have multiple uses for all kinds of projects that don’t involve quilting at all.  This is a case of “size matters”.  It is most advisable to use the smallest hoop practical for each embroidery to allow for the most amount of fabric support during stitching.

First of all, both Husqvarna Viking and Pfaff make versions of each of these hoops.  The hoops I have were all purchased for my Designer Diamond Royale, thus the Husqvarna Viking boxes.  I have included links for both brands for your convenience. 

When deciding which hoop to use, choose the one that is the smallest practical size for your embroidery.

The three square hoops; the Texture Hoop (HV) (Pfaff), the Do-All Quilter’s Hoop/ All Fabric Hoop and the 200x200mm Quilter’s Hoop/Creative Quilter’s Hoop each have differences that allow them to be good general hoops but with a task at which they each shine.

Left to right: Texture Hoop, Do All Quilter’s Hoop, 200x200mm Quilter’s Hoop. The middle hoop comes with two inserts to handle different thicknesses of fabric or batting.

The largest square hoop, the Quilter’s Hoop/Creative Quilter’s Hoop, 200x200mm or 8”x8”, has size on its side.  The only hoop larger that is almost square is the 360x350mm turntable hoop.  Making a quilt with the 200x200mm or 8”x8” hoop allows you to bring together projects quickly due to block size.  This hoop paired with blocks made using the standard square 100x100mm or 4”x4” hoop let you create quilts with blocks of proportional sizing with very little effort.

The 150x150mm Texture Hoop inside the 200x200mm Quilter’s Hoop for size comparison purposes.

The Texture Hoop is in a class all its own.  At a size of 150x150mm or 6”x6”, it allows you to create quilt blocks that use texture such as yarns and ribbons running through the embroidery designs. 

After finishing the textured block, the yarn or ribbon ends simply get sewn into the seams of the next block.

The other 150x150mm hoop is the Quilter’s Do-All Hoop/All Fabric Hoop.  This is another 150x150mm or 6”x6” hoop that comes with two inner hoops:  one for thinner fabrics or batting and one for heavy or thicker fabric or batting.  With the quick release lever you can set the hoop for the first block, no matter the batting size, and simply re-hoop over and over again with very little hoop adjustment needed.  I love this hoop for quilting after all my quilt layers are together.  The “heavy” inner hoop allows me to put the hoop anywhere and I don’t have to worry about thickness.

The difference between the “light” insert and the “heavy” insert is how much room is left between the inner and outer hoop when hooping fabric. The “heavy” insert gives more room between the inner and outer hoop.

Lastly, I love my metal hoops.  Only the smallest one is square at 100x100mm or 4”x4”, but I find all three of them invaluable for stitching random quilting designs all over the finished quilt.  I use them for borders, hard to hoop areas, areas where I think hoop burn might be a problem, anywhere!

My metal hoops are usually my first choice, no matter what the job! The small hoop (HV) (Pfaff), the medium hoop (HV) (Pfaff) and the large hoop (HV) (Pfaff)

 For me, my metal hoops work best when stitching designs that are not very dense.  This makes them perfect for my quilting designs.  My only advice with these hoops is you purchase an extra pack of magnets.  It comes with four, but I really think you need at least eight to securely hold your project while embroidering.

Both Husqvarna Viking and Pfaff have these Inspira extra magnets
The usual placement for the magnets on each metal hoop.

Well, that’s it!  I hope the information and all the links have been of some help.

“Specialty Embroidery Hoops and Quilting”

Those of you who have taken a class with me know I am definitely a “just in case” rather than a “just in time” type of customer at Bonny’s.  Over the years that philosophy has led me to buy a variety of specialty hoops “just in case” I might have a project that needed that very accessory!  Honestly, time and time again I have used every one of the hoops and accessories I have purchased because I had them waiting for me in my sewing room.  For the next two weeks I want to share with you the different specialty hoops and how I have used them in my quilting projects in the hopes this might help you should you decide to add any of these specialty hoops to your collection.

A sampling of my hoop collection!

This week I want to talk about the Endless hoops.  These hoops come in two sizes:  260 x 150mm (10.25” x 6”) and the 180 x 100mm (7” x 4”).

Both Husqvarna Viking and Pfaff have the Endless Hoops in the 10.25″ x 6″ and in the 7″ x 4″.
The hoop opens like an alligator’s mouth allowing you to move your fabric without having to remove the hoop from your machine.

Endless hoops are meant to allow you to easily embroider along the borders of your quilt before you apply your binding.  Since they do not open the way a traditional hoop does, you are able to complete your embroidery pattern, open the hoop, move and line up the fabric, close the hoop and resume your embroidering without ever removing the hoop from the machine.  (These hoops also work beautifully for non-quilting tasks too, such as making lengths of free standing lace.)  As long as you have a fabric edge to guide off of along the edge of the hoop, you are golden!  Endless embroidery designs all have registration stitches at the beginning and at the end of the design to help you line up design after design so you cannot tell where you opened the hoop and advanced the fabric. Since you do not have to use specially digitized designs in the endless hoop though, your possibilities for the use of these types of hoops really opens up.

The larger hoop works great on larger borders and on “quilt as you go” projects like this.
The smaller hoop works beautifully on smaller borders or on smaller projects.

Once you practice with one of these hoops, you will be hooked!

Husqvarna Viking 7″ x 4″ hoop 10.25″ x 6″ hoop

Pfaff 7″x 4″ hoop 10.25″ x 6″ hoop

The Endless Hoop in action

“Fabric Tips”

Because my sewing is so eclectic, I sew on many different fabrics.  I sew garment fabrics of all kinds, upholstery fabrics, drapery fabrics, linings, quilting fabrics:  you name it, I’ve probably sewn it.  Today I ran across a fabric I have never sewn before; Outdoor fabric.  This has become quite a popular fabric in the last year or two.   It is used for making pillows, cushions, etc. for use on decks, boats or any other outdoor applications.  I came across this fabric at the request of my local nursing facility, for which I make walker bags as an ongoing charity sewing project.   They provide the fabric and I provide the sewing!  Anyway, some of the fabric they provided this time was Outdoor fabric.  If you are planning to work with this fabric, here are a few tips that might prove helpful.

The Outdoor fabric has vivid colors and has great prints but is a little tricky to sew!

First of all, this fabric is completely synthetic.  It is quite stiff to handle and it seems to fray just by looking at it!  It also doesn’t particularly like the iron so I am not pressing after sewing the way I usually do when sewing a project. All Purpose construction thread seems to work just fine and an 80/12 universal needle has performed beautifully; not too light and not too heavy.

The size 80/12 needle did a great job!

I highly recommend that all raw edges of the project be overcast before sewing together, even if the seam will be enclosed.  If you fail to overcast every edge you may find the project will last only a very short time.  The woven “threads” of the material are slippery against one another and have a hard time holding together.  I would not recommend using pins with this fabric.  I am just holding the pieces together as I sew or am using clips to secure my pieces.  Needle holes will not “heal” with this fabric.  Lastly, I would not recommend using a straight stitch on any seams that will have stress.  I used a seam/overcast stitch on all construction areas to spread out the stress along multiple points in the seams.  A straight stitch works just fine for top stitching, though you will find the thread does not sink into the fabric, but lies on top of the fabric.  This is due to the nature of the fabric and is not necessarily helped by adjusting the machine’s tension.  I hope these tips help you should you decide to sew Outdoor fabric.

“Piping and Welting”

Sewing terms sometimes change depending on the type of sewing being discussed.  For instance, piping and welting are two names for the same thing; one name for the world of garment construction and one name for the world of home décor.  I was at a family gathering today in honor of Mother’s Day and I was talking to a relative about making a head board for the bed in her son’s room.  She was asking me about the process of construction and as I was explaining the sequence of steps, I mentioned she would probably want to use welt around the edges of the headboard to reduce the wear that might occur on the edges of the fabric as it wrapped around the board.  She wasn’t familiar with the term “welt” but when I said it was the same thing as piping, she immediately knew what I was talking about.  The difference between welting and piping is its use and the size of the cording that is encased inside the fabric.

From left to right: Cording for piping, cording for welt and cording for extra large welt. You will recognize the extra large welting as an accent found on many throw pillows.

Piping is for garments and usually uses a cording that is quite small in diameter.   This makes sense since it is found as an accent around sleeves, princess seams, the edges of linings, necklines, etc. where a larger cording might be uncomfortable to wear.  Welt, on the other hand, is found around the edges of throw pillows, the boxing of cushions and the outlines of furniture.  It is decorative, but also has a functional use.  Welting extends the life of an upholstered piece, cushion or pillow by taking the constant wear away from the seam.  It usually takes longer to wear out the welting than it would the cushion seam, so the item lasts longer.  No matter what you are using it for, remember that the piping or welting, if it is going to be going around curves or rounded edges, must be made from material cut on the bias.  If you neglect this important step you will be very unhappy with your final results.

“Scissor Maintenance”

When I first began to sew as a child, my parents taught me to use quality tools for the craft.  For example, sewing scissors were only to be used in the sewing room and they were never to be used to cut paper!  These were clear rules for a child and I understood them completely.  As I grew older, I started to put my own money into those sewing tools and so the rules really became something I followed.  Nothing like having “a little skin in the game” to encourage one to take care of what one has!  A quality pair of scissors will last for a good long time. My cutting shears are working on their fourth decade with me!  About once every other month, I treat them to a “scissor spa day” where they are cleaned, sharpened and lubricated.

  First step is to clean the blades with a soft cloth.

I use a men’s handkerchief for the job since it is soft and has very little lint.

Once the blades are wiped off (I also wipe the blades each time I use the scissors, before I put them away), I use the sharpening stone on the outside beveled edge of the blades.

The sharpening stone I use has its own leather case…
…and came with illustrated instructions for use.

Since I do this regularly, I do not need to do much sharpening all at once.  I then wipe the blade off again to get rid of any residue or debris from the sharpening.  I oil the scissors where they are joined, using a drop of sewing machine oil on both sides of the screw assembly and then open and close the scissors multiple times to let the oil get down into the area.  I use sewing machine oil because it does not tend to leave a stain as some household oils can:  it’s formulated to work in machines that deal with fabric. If needed, I also put a drop of oil on each blade, rub it in and then wipe off the excess. 

I oil one side of the screw….
…then turn the scissors over and oil the other side.

After everything is cleaned, the scissors go back into their sheath and they are ready for my next project.  The whole operation takes no more than ten minutes so I don’t tend to put off the maintenance.  I hope my sharing this routine with you will inspire you to do a little maintenance of your own!

All cleaned, oiled and ready for the next project!

“What Are Those Markings?”

Yesterday I was teaching the “Learn Your Machine” class at Bonny’s and a customer asked me “What are those markings on the metal plate?” She was talking about the markings on the stitch plate and I thought at the time, “What an excellent question!”  If you are new to sewing or if you have not sewn for an extended period of time, the lines on the stitch plate may not make much sense.  Most machine manufacturers sell their products globally, so creating the markings in the metric system is the most cost efficient.  If a stitch plate with markings in inches is available for your machine, you may want to invest in this, usually, optional accessory. The lines on the stitch plate are there for you to use as a guide for your fabric, allowing you to maintain a straight line of stitching.

You line up the edge of the fabric with the line that gives you the seam size you want and then guide the fabric along that line as you sew.

If you are using a plate that has lines with the designations of 1, 2, 3, etc. this is probably a stitch plate measured using the metric system.  By following these lines, you are stitching at a specific distance from the needle when it is in center position.

The lines are in centimeters away from the needle in center position:
1 cm = 3/8″
1.5 cm = 5/8″
2 cm = 3/4″
2.5 cm = 1″

The above are approximate measurements since the metric system does not line up precisely with inches.  Using a stitch plate that is marked in inches allows you to sew more accurate seams since there is no conversion from one system to another. Once you get used to the lines you follow the most for the specific seam size you sew, these markings will be another tool that makes sewing a little easier.

“The Perfect Piecing Stitch”

The beauty of chain piecing while making a quilt is you can sew continuously, joining piece after piece together in a short amount of time.  Chain piecing, on its own, does not allow for reinforcing stitches (sewing in reverse at the beginning and/or end of a seam) or you are defeating the time saving benefits of the technique.   Most  quality fabrics will stay together without this reinforcing stitch until the next seam is sewn across the first; but what about those fabrics that would benefit from reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of a seam:  especially those pieces that will get a lot of handling before the next seam is sewn?  How can you keep these pieces from coming apart?  My solution has always been to change the stitch length at the beginning and end of a seam, but that eats up a lot of time and becomes very monotonous over the course of a larger project.  What to do?  How about using your machine’s programming/sequencing ability to create the perfect seam?  This is how I did it.

The challenge was to create a sequence (Pfaff terminology) or a program (Husqvarna Viking terminology) that was exactly the length I needed to sew a 5.5” fabric piece.

I was going to piece together two 2.5″ wide by 5.5″ long pieces.

I started with very small straight stitches for the first 6 stitches.

Stitch length of 1.0 is very small. This is how each seam begins and ends.

I then increased the length of the straight stitch for the next 53 stitches.

A stitch length of 2.5 is the common length for a straight stitch.

I finished the stitch by ending back at the length I started the sequence with and inserted a Stop at the end of the sequence.

Don’t forget to add the Stop command!

Now, each time I came to the end of a piece, my machine would stop and let me line up the next piece in the chain.

You can stop in the needle up or needle down position to add the next piece in the chain. I chose needle up.

I could start sewing again just by pressing the foot pedal or by pushing the stop/start button.  Here is what I created in my machine to sew an exact 5.5” piece of fabric (all stitches I used were straight stitches).

6 straight stitches at 1.0 length, 53 stitches at 2.5 length and 10 stitches at 1.0 length plus one Stop command.

I then saved that sequence so I can now reload that stitch any time I would like to chain 5.5” fabric pieces.  Each machine is a bit different, so you might need to tweak my numbers just a bit, but you might find this is your new favorite way to piece.  Your pieces, because they have very small stitches at the beginning and end of the seam, hold up well to a lot of handling, either from pressing or from layout manipulation.  If you need to stitch a larger piece size, add more stitches.  If you need to stitch a smaller piece, decrease the number of stitches.  Once you have the framework, the adjustments are easy. Also, once the sequence/program is complete and is in Sewing Mode, you are able to move the whole thing a bit to the left or a bit to the right to get the perfect 1/4″ or scant 1/4″ seam!

The top box lets me know how long the sequence is (148.5) and the bottom box allows me to adjust the sequence to the left or right of the center needle position. 0.0 means I am using this sequence in center needle position.

“Air Sewing”

In all types of sewing there will be times when you will either need to start sewing before the fabric is under the needle or after the needle has cleared the fabric.  In quilting, for example, it can happen while sewing leaders and enders, as well as while chain piecing.  In garment sewing it can happen when sewing points, such as for darts or for starting techniques such as a rolled hem.  All single needle sewing machines that use a bobbin form a stitch in basically the same way.  Once you understand the formation of a stitch, you will be less likely to have trouble with these “sewing off the fabric” techniques.

Remember, a sewing machine is all about timing and thread tension.  When the top thread and needle intersects with the bobbin thread is the key to everything.  Thread tension needs to relax at just the right moment to be ready to pick up the bobbin thread and form the stitch.  Since the stitch is not stable on its own, it needs to have a piece of fabric or stabilizer between the presser foot and the feed teeth to be able to stay formed.  This is why sewing in the air is just not practical and why it gets so many sewers into trouble.  It is very easy to create a thread nest when “air sewing”.  The best way to avoid this is to make sure there is tension on the thread as you begin to sew.  You may do this a few different ways such as holding the threads for the first two stitches with your fingers or by placing the threads under the presser foot, but making a habit of this small act will eliminate the lion’s share of thread nesting issues.  When working with fabric weights such as quilting cottons or lighter, a straight stitch needle plate and a straight stitch presser foot will help keep the fabric from getting sucked down into the stitch plate hole, keeping the fabric from following the top thread as it is on its way down to meet the bobbin thread.  If you are using a straight stitch presser foot and/or needle plate, remember to tell your machine by selecting “Stitch Width Safety” in the Set Menu.