“Following the Marks”

When I first started sewing, I recognized there were marks on my machine’s presser feet, but I really didn’t understand their significance or how to use them.  I knew the marks had something to do with fabric alignment, but I never took the time to really learn about the tools I was using.  Once I really studied how to use the presser feet I had and how to follow the marks that were on them, I was able to purchase and use specialty feet with renewed purpose.  If you, like me, have never taken the time to really look at the markings on your presser feet and learn how to use them, I encourage you to do so.  Once you really understand how useful these markings are, your sewing projects can be sewn faster and with more accuracy than ever before.  Let me share with you a couple examples.

These are a few of the specialty presser feet I have for my Husqvarna Viking and Pfaff machines. I have chosen two feet as examples that are available for both machines.
Both Pfaff and Husqvarna Viking have a 1/4″ piecing foot that allows you to move the needle slightly to achieve a scant 1/4″ seam. When you purchase a new foot, there will probably be a paper insert in the packaging explaining the foot’s markings. You should keep this for future reference.
This foot is made to deliver an exact 1/4″ seam when the edge of the fabric runs along the metal guide and the needle is in the center position. The scant 1/4″ seam can be achieved by moving the needle position slightly to the right.
You can tell the needle is in the exact center position when it lines up with the center slit and the needle position on your machine is at 0.0. Moving the needle to the left gives a “minus” reading and moving the needle to the right gives a “plus” reading on your machine’s display.
If you decide you need an 1/8″ seam, simply line up your fabric on the inside of the narrow prong of the foot. This is one of those things that has no marking, but knowing your tools gives knowledge that may not be written down!
See how the fabric runs along the inside of the narrow prong? With the needle in the center position, this is the 1/8″ seam allowance I mentioned in the previous picture. Now let’s look at what the markings on this foot tell you…
This front marking is exactly 1/4″ away from the needle. This is great when I am applying binding for quilts or table runners. I need to stop exactly 1/4″ away from each corner so I can make the turn and create the 45 degree miter. I never have to mark my fabric to create this perfect ending.
This marking lets me know where my needle is. Sometimes my needle is hard to see, depending on the fabric I’m sewing and the time of day or night. This marking makes my needle very easy to keep track of regardless of material color or light in the room.
By keeping an eye on the needle marking and on the front marking, I can be sure I’ve stopped 1/4″ from the edge of the fabric.
The rear line is exactly 1/4″ behind the needle. If I need to stop sewing 1/4″ from where I’ve been, this is the mark I’m looking to follow. This works really well when I want to start sewing 1/4″ from the edge of the fabric.
Remember, you will be keeping your eye on both lines. Did you notice these lines are continued on the right side of the foot as well? You can use either side of the foot to watch your lines and know you will be accurate.
Both Husqvarna Viking and Pfaff have a 5/8″ seam guide foot. This is the most common size seam allowance for garment construction. With the needle in the center position and the fabric against the metal guide, you will produce a precise 5/8″ seam. Notice the horizontal line? That’s to make sure you always know exactly where your needle is located in relation to the foot and the fabric.
There are two center lines on this foot, marking needle position.
The information that comes with the foot tells you what the different markings mean, but it doesn’t mention the two needle position lines, so what is the second one for?
A 5/8″ seam allowance is common in garment sewing, but a 1/2″ allowance is common in home decor. By moving your needle into position behind the second red marking and running your fabric against the metal guide, you will create an exact 1/2″ seam.
Remember, moving the needle to the right is in the “plus” direction and moving the needle to the left is in the “minus” direction.

I hope these two examples are helpful for you as you learn to use your presser feet to their fullest. Happy Sewing!


I am a firm believer in making the most of all the features of your sewing and or sewing/embroidery machine.  I feel badly when customers in class say they have been intimidated by any of the features they have paid hard earned money to have available to them.  One of the most consistent features customers seem most intimidated by is the buttonhole feature.  I have had many people tell me they didn’t want to practice the buttonhole during their machine class because they didn’t want to use it:  it just never turned out for them in the past.  There was always such surprise and new found confidence when they decided to give it a go and they were successful!  I am all for not using a feature simply because it’s not needed at the time, but I hope there are no features on your machine which you don’t use because you don’t have confidence that you will be successful using it!  Here are a few tips that might help you if buttonholes are something you have been avoiding due to “buttonhole intimidation”.

For newer machines there are basically two types of buttonhole feet: the type you have to measure your button to use and the type that measures the button for you.
This foot belongs to my Pfaff Creative Icon. I need to measure the button size using the ruler on the lid of my machine. I then need to make sure the red arrow is lined up with the metal notch before I begin to stitch.
This foot belongs to my Husqvarna Viking Designer Diamond Royale. I need to measure the button using the gauge on the front of my machine’s base, then I need to make sure the white crown lines up with the notch before I begin to stitch.
This foot belongs to my Brother Luminaire. The foot measures the button for me, so the size of the hole is automatically calculated by the machine. On some machines, there is a sensor bar that must be lowered for this foot to be accurate.
I place my buttonholes 1/2″ to 5/8″ from the edge. I place a mark here.
Then I mark the middle. I can now set my foot exactly where I want the buttonhole to stitch.
Since these buttonholes are for charity walker bags, I need to use cut away stabilizer on the back to make sure the buttonholes don’t pull out over time. I always use some type of stabilizer on all my buttonholes.
With the stabilizer in place, I need to line up the middle mark with the middle nib on the foot. The vertical line lines up with the nib and the horizontal line shows where I need to start sewing.
By lining up the nib with the center vertical line, the buttonhole will stitch out exactly where I want it to.
The finished buttonhole starts at the horizontal line and stitches out on either side of the vertical line. Perfect!
All that’s left to do is to trim the stabilizer, cut open the buttonhole slits and sew the buttons on.
I sewed the buttons on with the machine. 24 buttonholes and 24 buttons sewn in about an hour. Not bad!

I would encourage you to practice on a project that uses many buttonholes, if possible. Maybe a new shower curtain or a throw pillow that closes using buttons! If, by using your manual for help, you are still not comfortable with this feature, go to https://sewingmastery.com/ and check out the process on your machine!

Happy Sewing!


I hope your holidays were safe and healthy.  After all my holiday sewing and embroidering was finished, I took time to re-organize my little sewing room and complete some tasks I needed to do to keep my machines in top working condition.  After cleaning each machine and in the case of the serger, oiling, I made sure to update them with the latest software updates.  This is a task I complete every year end so I won’t have trouble with my machines as I start a new year of projects.

How do you know if your machine needs to be updated?  If you go to the website for your machine, available updates will be listed so you’ll know when you need to download.  (These updates can also occur anytime during the year and should be downloaded when they are offered.)  If you have a WiFi enabled machine, you will get an automatic notification, even if you do not have it set for automatic updates.  Whether or not you have a WiFi machine, following the directions on the website for updating through a USB device, in my opinion, is the best way to go.  It’s easy and usually much faster than updating through WiFi.  I recommend the use of an empty 2GB USB stick, which should be enough room for even the largest updates, such as the latest update for the Pfaff Creative Icon. 

The USB stick is very affordable and easy to use when downloading an update. I have found the 1GB stick to be too small for some updates, but the 2GB has worked very nicely for me.

There were quite a few updates made available during the months of October, November and December 2020, so check your machine’s website to see if your machine was included.  Updates help to fix glitches and bugs in the machine’s software as well as allow the machine to use the latest accessories offered by the machine’s manufacturer.  Among possible machine improvements in an update: tension issues may be fixed, overall stitch quality may be improved and, sometimes, new stitches may be added to the machine, to name a few.   If your machine has a USB port, it probably is a machine that will be updated by the manufacturer.  When going to the homepage of the website, scroll to the bottom of the page and click on “Machine Updates”, select your machine from the list and then follow the easy directions given. 

On the homepage for Husqvarna Viking, scroll to the bottom of the page and click on Machine Updates (4th on the menu).
For the Pfaff homepage, scroll to the bottom of the page and click on Machine Updates (4th on the menu).

Happy Sewing!

“In Two Camps”

Every person who sews has their own way of doing things.  I’m no exception, but my approach to most any sewing project is usually eclectic and conditional.  In this case, I am embroidering towels for my two nieces.  Well, not really for them:  for their new dogs.  Each towel set fits the décor of the house in which the dog lives and will make bath time a very special treat.  There are two ways to stabilize towels when using embroidery.  Camp one says you use a tear away stabilizer on the back which is discarded after the embroidery is finished stitching out so nothing shows on the back of the towel.  Camp two says you use cut away stabilizer on the back of the embroidery which is left on for the life of the towel.  I am in both camps since I use both methods, depending on the towel and on the embroidery design.  If I am embroidering a kitchen towel, like a flour sack towel, and the design is light and airy, I use tear away stabilizer and discard it once the towel is stitched.  For this project, I am using very fluffy towels and a dense embroidery design, thus the cut away stabilizer.  This stabilizer will be seen on the back of the towel, but I think the stability the stabilizer will give the stitches over the life of the towel is worth it.  This type of project is fast and fun and, depending on the cost of the towel, very inexpensive.  This is how I did it.

I started by using an 80/12 titanium coated needle…
and Floriani polyester embroidery thread in the needle and in the bobbin. I think this looks best from the back. Polyester thread is great for this application since it stands up to frequent washing and even chlorine!
I used Inspira’s Cut Away Light for the back and Sulky’s Super Solvy for the topper. When embroidering a towel you need this topper so the loops of the terry cloth do not get snagged during stitching.
Remember, you never hoop terry cloth directly, so I hooped up just the cut away stabilizer…
…and sprayed it with KK100 temporary spray adhesive. Please never spray your fabric, just the stabilizer!
I used the hoop template to help me align my design. On the hand towel the bottom of the design is 2″ from the bottom and for the bath towel it is 4″ from the bottom.
Once I had aligned my design and put the hoop on my Brother machine, I turned off the snips. Whenever the back of your work will show, the thread snips should be turned off for a neater finished product.
I next basted the Super Solvy topper and towel to the cut away stabilizer in the hoop and it was time to embroider!
When embroidering something heavy, like this bath towel, it is best to keep the weight off the embroidery arm of the machine. I did this by holding the rest of the towel up while embroidery was in progress.
Before removing the work from the hoop, I like to remove the basting…
…and apply a seam sealant to the threads where the knots are before I cut them to clean up the back of the embroidery.
Once all the threads are cleaned up I cut the stabilizer to about 1/4″ around the entire design.
Here are the finished towels for Queen Zoe and King Max.

This was such a fun and fast project. I hope, if you have an embroidery machine, you give this a try. I picked up these towels at Walmart and Target so my investment was more in time than in dollars!

This is my last blog entry for 2020. Look for the blog to begin again the first week of January 2021. Happy Sewing!

“Four Simple Rules”

Each year around this time, more and more videos pop up around the search for the best sewing and/or embroidery machines of that year.  “The Best Machines of 2020” is an eye-catching way of getting you to watch a collage of promotional videos from different machine manufacturers without ever telling you which machine is actually the best.  This blog entry is not that, but I did want to give you some things to think about if you are contemplating buying a new machine, either for yourself or for someone on your holiday list.  I myself am the owner of machines from Husqvarna Viking, Pfaff and Brother, all of which I have purchased from Bonny’s Sewing and Fabric.  I have owned Husqvarna Viking machines the longest.  If you talk to five people who own five different brands of machines, they will give you five different opinions.  That makes sense.  I think you will find my advice here is more universal than brand-specific.  I think of these as my rules for buying.

Rule #1:   Assess your sewing.  Take the time to look at what type of sewing you are currently doing and what you hope to sew in the future.  If you are a quilter, for instance, do you think you might like to branch into some home décor sewing if you had a machine that made that easy?  Are there certain accessories that would really enhance your sewing and do they fit the machine you are thinking of purchasing?

Rule #2:  Look at the warranty on the machine.  Are you someone who will be buying a less expensive machine that will meet your current needs or are you a person who buys for longevity?  Understand that if you buy a machine at a big box or discount store it is not meant to last many years.  Depending upon the machine, these units are meant, by the manufacturer, to be disposable machines:  the manufacturers do not make replacement parts for them.  If you are buying for longevity, you will want to purchase a more expensive machine with a more robust warranty that is meant to cover a repair, should something go wrong. You’ll also want to develop a relationship with the dealer who sells you the machine so you will have somewhere to go for help should you need it.

Rule #3:  Buy as many features as you can afford.  How much are you willing to put into this purchase?  For example, if you are looking at embroidery machines, I suggest you buy the machine that offers you the largest hoop and the most amount of on-screen design editing you can afford.  If you are looking for a sewing only machine, I would look for the one that offers you the most decorative stitches, the best stitch quality and the most ease of operation.  I tend to buy a machine based upon my potential so I can grow as a sewer.  I want to learn new techniques and learn new skills, not just continue at the same level at which I sew now.  Each machine I have ever purchased has had new features that I was sure I would never use, but features I ended up using on a regular basis.

Rule #4:  Make a promise to yourself!  The amount of money you are willing to spend on a new machine is usually directly proportional to your commitment to its use.  I have heard many customers say they don’t use their machine enough to justify the price tag.  For me, I sew every week because I promised myself I would.  Since I have put a lot of money into the machines I decided to buy, I have made a personal commitment that I will make time to justify that price tag by using the machines a lot.  This comes in the form of garment sewing for me and my family, sewing our gifts, sewing our home décor items and sewing for charity.  Don’t try to use the machine often:  make a commitment and keep it.

I hope these rules help you.  Have a great week and Happy Sewing!

“Free Motion Inspiration”

I am so interested in stitching and the different ways of using embellishment.  I look at free motion quilting as adding embellishment to quilts.  I am always intrigued by what other people do and how they do it, which is why I look for excellent teaching when watching YouTube videos.  We all know that quality can be lacking in some of the posted videos, (okay, that’s a real understatement!) so when I come across teaching of quality, I like to pass it on to you.  I hope you find the following links to be well organized and full of great information.  They give you a lot to enjoy looking at but they give you real details on the process of different patterns in free motion quilting and they are all presented in a very doable format.  Enjoy your week and Happy Sewing!

Tiny Orchards Paisley free motion. Tiny Orchards Topography free motion. Meghan from Tiny Orchards YouTube channel.

Bernina’s Amanda Murphy free motion sashing designs.

Angela Walters meandering swirls. Angela Walters elongated swirls. Angela Walters YouTube channel.

Angela Walters free motion challenge: a real put-your-money-where-your-mouth-is challenge. Are you up for the task?

“A Slippery Situation”

My sister-in-law bought a new down coat last week.  Yesterday I got a panicked call from her telling me her dog had jumped up on her and left two tears on the front and side of the coat:  could I fix it?  I’ve told you before that I get some tricky tasks since I’m the only one in the family who sews, but sewing on a goose down nylon coat is one I have never previously tackled.  My immediate answer:  bring it over so I can look at it.  With a day to consider different options I wanted to share with you my conclusions and solutions to this repair problem.  A few things came to mind as soon as I saw the coat.  1. The fabric is so slippery!!  2.  I won’t be able to pin or secure the fabric in any way before I sew it since holes will not heal on this fabric.  3.  Down feathers were coming out of each hole surprisingly fast!  4.  The nylon fabric was fraying just by looking at it!  Maybe some of my decisions may help you if you find yourself in my position one day….

This is the tear left in the side of the coat, at the waist under the sleeve area. This was the smaller of the two holes.
The tear in the front of the coat was much larger and not at all easy to hide when mending.
I decided I would use the mending stitch in my utility menu, #1.4.7. If you have never used this stitch and would like some help, please see my 4.26.20 blog “Mending Tears” for an explanation of its use.
I knew I would need to make some adjustments to the stitch so I went into Stitch Edit and…..
…changed the width of the finished mending area from the default setting of 8.5 to 8.0. I worked on the tear at the side of the coat first so I could practice before tackling the front tear.
I put on the recommended foot 2A and disengaged the IDT system (Dual feed) on my Pfaff.
I knew I would have to work with a fine needle so I chose a size 70/10. Remember, if you use a needle smaller than 75/11 the automatic needle threader will not work: the eye of the needle is too small.
Next I did some test stitches on some scrap stabilizer and decided 8.0 was the width mending stitch I wanted to use. The free motion options I was trying below were just not working. Better to let the machine do it’s thing!
I didn’t feel the jacket fabric would support a mending stitch without some help, so I planned to place some cotton bias tape inside each tear. I had to fold the tape to get it into the side tear but could put it in flat on the front tear. I used a blunt tip stiletto to help me.
I used a scrap piece of water soluble stabilizer on the back of the coat under each tear to give the area more support and stability.
I sprayed the stabilizer lightly with temporary adhesive….
…and laid it on the inside of the coat, under the tear, so it wouldn’t move while I was sewing. Remember, you can’t use any pins on nylon. The KK2000 is more expensive than other temporary adhesives, but I think it does the best job in this type of application. It will disappear in a few days, leaving no residue.
With the bias tape folded and inside the tear, I took my test stitch-out on stabilizer and laid it in front of the area to place my first stitch on the coat. I needed to gauge where to start sewing based on where the mending stitch would end and its overall width.
The side tear after the stitching was finished. You can see the outline of the folded bias tape on the inside of the jacket, which didn’t thrill me, but I now knew exactly how slippery this fabric was going to be under the presser foot. I was now ready to tackle the front tear.
The front tear was much larger and I was able to insert the bias tape to lie flat. Also, after I was finished stitching, I took a navy blue pen and just touched the areas where down feathers kept escaping while I was sewing. This turned out much better than the side tear which is why I practiced on the more hidden tear first!
Once you take a step back from the coat, the mend is a little less noticeable, though you will always notice something. It’s better than the large tear that was spilling down feathers!
When wearing the coat, I don’t think the repair will be overly obvious. My sister-in-law got the coat back tonight and she’s happy, so all is right with the world again!

So just to recap…measure the mending stitch you plan to use by actually stitching it out. Use a small needle to lessen the size of the holes you will be making as you mend. Use something to stabilize the fabric, inside and outside, so the mend does not pull the fabric apart at the edges (nylon, once torn, has little strength on its own. It needs help). I used cotton bias tape on the inside of the coat, in between the layers of coat and the down feathers. While stitching I used a stabilizer that will disappear either with water or with the air (it will dry up over time and flake off). Also, when I was putting the coat under the presser foot on my machine, I dropped the feed teeth so the nylon did not get snagged.

I hope you find some useful hints here if you ever find yourself in this type of situation. Have a great week and Happy Sewing!

“Face Mask 2.0”

This pandemic has proven to be a real “norm changer” for all of us.  My family and I think that face masks will be in our foreseeable future longer than we ever thought they would be.  Of course, if that helps to keep me, my family and those around us safe and healthy, we’re all in!  I have been making masks with horizontal pleats by the dozens ever since March, but have found after wearing them for a while, the fogging of the glasses gets to be a bit annoying.  When I came across this video today for a mask with vertical pleats, I just had to try it and share it with you.  I followed the directions in the video very carefully, so the first mask took about 45 minutes from cut out to finished product.  Now that I have done it once, I think I will put my own spin on it and things will go much faster as I make more.  Follow the link to the original video and I will share with you the little things I did to change the process for me.

Besides my machine, iron, rotary cutter, ruler, fabric and elastic, these were the other tools I used for this project. The slender blue tool in the middle is a heat resistant stiletto. If you have never used one, I highly recommend it! I always use it when turning and pressing narrow seams. Really saves the fingers!
Since all my seams would be a quarter inch, using my quarter inch piecing foot just made sense.
In the video, the pleats were pinned and then sewed. I took time to press each pleat so I didn’t have to worry about sewing over any pins when everything was stitched down.
Once all my pleats were pressed in, I took the mask to the machine and held the pleats in place with my pointed stiletto and sewed slowly. The only pin I kept in was the one marking the center, to make sure the inverted pleats were in the right place.
Since I had pre-pressed the pleats, when I folded them to the middle, they just stayed there without having to secure them. This made sewing them a breeze!

I did make some small changes to the original pattern given in the video. I changed the elastic to an 8.5” cut.   Also, the cut size of the fabric given in the video (6.5”x9.5”) produces a mask that fits me, but is too small for my husband.  I will have to play with the fabric’s cut size to find something that fits him comfortably.  He will also need longer ear elastic and would probably benefit from the stoppers used in the video.  I didn’t have any of those on hand, so the elastic on my mask was measured to fit me.  Also, the mask, since it uses an inverted pleat, has a definite right side/wrong side.  The horizontal pleats lend themselves to reversibility, but the inverted pleat used in the vertical pleat mask, really fits best one way.  The inverted pleat will mold best to your face one way better than the other.  Wearing it “the right way” is very obvious.  Once I tried on the mask, I was pleasantly surprised how much more comfortable it was for me and my glasses had no fogging!  I will be making more of these tomorrow!  Happy Sewing!

My finished mask. I really like it. The inverted pleat allows the mask to sit away from your face, which I find much more comfortable.

“Making Changes”

The variety of machines; sewing, quilting, sewing/embroidery, serging, has something for everyone.  All of the Husqvarna Viking, Pfaff and Brother machines have “normal” or default settings for each stitch and technique on the machine.  These default settings (another name for the settings created at the factory) make some assumptions about what you are sewing and what settings would make the stitch look and perform the best.  Once you move up the line from the entry model machines, the stitch length, width and tension start to be set automatically by the machine.  In the case of Husqvarna Viking machines, the Sewing Advisor gives very specific parameters for stitch settings and even recommends the use of particular stitches so customers don’t have to worry about a thing.  All of these automatic settings make sewing fast and easy but can also cause some customers to be hesitant to change those settings:  sometimes ever!

The settings you can change on your machine are settings the manufacturers expect you to change.  Making changes in stitch length or width, upper tension, presser foot pressure, the feed teeth, needle position, etc. can all help your project look its best.  Some customers are afraid if they make a significant change to their machine, they will not be able to return it to the way it used to be:  the way it came from the factory.  Here are some guidelines to help you feel confident about making changes to your machine.

There are two types of changes you can make in the settings of your machine:  default and temporary.  Default changes change the settings until you change them back again, even though you turn off your machine.  They change the machine to a new set of default or factory settings.  On mechanical machines, default settings include any change you need to make by turning a knob or dial, such as a tension knob, dropping the feed teeth or a presser foot pressure knob.   On these machines, the changes you are making are mechanical and the machine cannot change them back again without your help.  On computerized machines, default changes are usually done on screen with an icon.  On these machines, once you change something like the stitch width safety or drop the feed teeth, these will remain changed even if the machine is turned off.  For instance, you will need to disengage the stitch width safety by touching the icon or it will stay engaged.  You will get a warning message every time the machine is turned on or when you try to change from a straight stitch to another type of stitch, but the default setting of the machine has been changed, by you, until you change it back again.

Top of the line machines make it clear which settings are default and which are temporary. Your machine may or may not be as clear, but you will have choices on each machine.

Temporary settings usually last only until you change the stitch.  Computerized machines, even if you change the tension or the presser foot pressure, as soon as you change the stitch or turn off the machine, will reset to the factory default settings.  Mechanical machines, if you need to turn a knob or dial, you will still need to return that knob or dial back to where you had it, even if it’s a temporary setting change.  (Even changes such as stitch length or width, if you turned a knob or dial to change it, need to be reset manually.)  That is one of the reasons computerized machines have become so popular:  they do a lot for you automatically.  If you own a computerized machine, the fear of messing up your machine is eliminated.  As soon as you turn the machine off and back on again, all is back to the original, fresh from the box settings.  This ability to “sense” when its settings have been changed makes it really important to have your machine up to date with its free updates from the website.  If you own a computerized machine purchased in the last five years that has a USB port, you can probably update your machine.  Updating your machine takes it back to its original factory settings as well as fixes bugs and glitches that showed up after the machine was in use with the worldwide customer base.  I hope this helps you make confident changes to your machine!  Happy Sewing!

P.S  I promised you a picture of the finished hooded pullover vest I made last week for my sister-in-law.  The lined hood was a big hit!

A close up of the hood on the finished garment.
The finished garment!


Sewing gives us the opportunity to make what we want or need exactly when we want or need it.  I can’t imagine not having that option.   As a garment sewer, I am often asked to make something for friends or family that fills a particular need and today was no exception.  My sister-in-law has just started her first chemo therapy treatments for a recently diagnosed cancer and I was asked if I could make something to keep her warm, but not too warm; something that had a hood and that would be soft against her soon-to-be bald head.  She preferred something that went over her head without a zipper.  I went to the sewing room and found a pattern for a pull-over vest that had a hood.  Perfect!  The only problem:  the hood was an unlined hood.  Since I was making this vest from fabric I already owned:  a purple knit boucle (she likes the color purple and boucle can be warm without being too warm), I decided to line the hood with a soft purple interlock knit (basically t-shirt knit).  Lining something that originally has no lining is not hard.  You are essentially making two of the pieces instead of one.  This is how I did it. 

This is the pattern piece for the vest’s hood. I cut one double layer of fashion fabric and one double layer of interlock knit lining.
Once both hood and lining are cut out, I cut away the facing allowance on the lining.
By cutting away the facing on the lining, the hood will still have the same finished look it was intended to have in the pattern. In other words, it will have a more finished look.
Once both lining and hood are sewn, it’s time to put them together.
The hood and lining are pinned, right sides together and sewn along the facing edge of the hood.
This is the seam line along which the two sections, hood and lining, are sewn.
Once the two pieces are joined together…
…it’s time to start treating these two pieces, hood and lining, as if they are one. I now go back to the directions and continue construction.
I am constructing this on my serger. Since the seam at the center of the hood could get bulky, I offset the seams. Once turned right side out, the seams will lie flat.
I turn under the 1″ facing to the inside of the hood. Remember, I cut the facing allowance away on the lining. This allows the facing to lie flat with no extra bulk.
Next step is to sew down the facing. I made sure to press the seam where I joined the hood and the lining towards the front of the hood. I now catch that seam in my sewing so it doesn’t fold the wrong way when wearing the garment.
To make sure my facing laid flat, I increased my stitch length to 4.0 and moved my needle to the left 2.5 mm. Also, since I’m stitching on knit material, I went into my settings menu and changed my presser foot pressure from the standard 6.5 to 3.
My hood is now lined and ready to be added to the rest of the garment.
The facing lies flat and looks the way the pattern intended it to look. I now treat the hood as one piece and continue following the pattern instructions.

Happy Sewing!

P.S.  Sorry this didn’t come out on Sunday evening.  With the increasing winds our power went out and therefore, no internet.  Now that the power is back on, here is the blog! I will post a picture of the finished garment next week!