“Customization”

Sewing gives us the opportunity to make what we want or need exactly when we want or need it.  I can’t imagine not having that option.   As a garment sewer, I am often asked to make something for friends or family that fills a particular need and today was no exception.  My sister-in-law has just started her first chemo therapy treatments for a recently diagnosed cancer and I was asked if I could make something to keep her warm, but not too warm; something that had a hood and that would be soft against her soon-to-be bald head.  She preferred something that went over her head without a zipper.  I went to the sewing room and found a pattern for a pull-over vest that had a hood.  Perfect!  The only problem:  the hood was an unlined hood.  Since I was making this vest from fabric I already owned:  a purple knit boucle (she likes the color purple and boucle can be warm without being too warm), I decided to line the hood with a soft purple interlock knit (basically t-shirt knit).  Lining something that originally has no lining is not hard.  You are essentially making two of the pieces instead of one.  This is how I did it. 

This is the pattern piece for the vest’s hood. I cut one double layer of fashion fabric and one double layer of interlock knit lining.
Once both hood and lining are cut out, I cut away the facing allowance on the lining.
By cutting away the facing on the lining, the hood will still have the same finished look it was intended to have in the pattern. In other words, it will have a more finished look.
Once both lining and hood are sewn, it’s time to put them together.
The hood and lining are pinned, right sides together and sewn along the facing edge of the hood.
This is the seam line along which the two sections, hood and lining, are sewn.
Once the two pieces are joined together…
…it’s time to start treating these two pieces, hood and lining, as if they are one. I now go back to the directions and continue construction.
I am constructing this on my serger. Since the seam at the center of the hood could get bulky, I offset the seams. Once turned right side out, the seams will lie flat.
I turn under the 1″ facing to the inside of the hood. Remember, I cut the facing allowance away on the lining. This allows the facing to lie flat with no extra bulk.
Next step is to sew down the facing. I made sure to press the seam where I joined the hood and the lining towards the front of the hood. I now catch that seam in my sewing so it doesn’t fold the wrong way when wearing the garment.
To make sure my facing laid flat, I increased my stitch length to 4.0 and moved my needle to the left 2.5 mm. Also, since I’m stitching on knit material, I went into my settings menu and changed my presser foot pressure from the standard 6.5 to 3.
My hood is now lined and ready to be added to the rest of the garment.
The facing lies flat and looks the way the pattern intended it to look. I now treat the hood as one piece and continue following the pattern instructions.

Happy Sewing!

P.S.  Sorry this didn’t come out on Sunday evening.  With the increasing winds our power went out and therefore, no internet.  Now that the power is back on, here is the blog! I will post a picture of the finished garment next week!